Climb Mt. Slesse!

The North East Buttress of Mt. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). The logistics of such a big route are daunting. Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details.

You will take 2.5 days to ascend and descend the route. VMG guides have climbed Mt. Slesse many times including pioneering the descent route down Crack Of Noon Club Buttress. Adding to the thrill of climbing Mt. Slesse is the experience of an open bivi on route!

Once on the summit you are only half way through the climb and your guide will then skillfully and safely navigate you down the long and complex descent. Our Guides will plan an incredible trip that you will not forget!

Itinerary:

Note: we have a 2-day and 2.5-day itinerary. With excellent fitness you can choose the 2-day option and climb the route over a weekend. A great majority, however, will enjoy the 2.5-day option more.

Day 1:
Meet at Tractorgrease Cafe on the Chilliwack Lake Road at 5am. After introductions and a quick gear check you will drive to the trail-head. Hiking by 6:30am. 

Cross slabs arriving at bypass ledges by 10am. Climbing by 11am.
Arrive at bivi site on route by 4pm. Eat food, rest, hydrate, and take photos. 

Day 2:
Alpine start. Climbing by 6am. Summit Mt. Slesse by 12noon and descend the west face ledges via down-climbing and rappels. Rappel Crack of Noon Club route to subalpine bivi site by 6pm. 

2-Day Option: above, plus pass bivi site and hike back to car. Expect a late day finishing approximately 8-10pm.

Day 3:
Leisurely sleep and deserved rest allows an enjoyable hike back to the car by 11am.

Waiver

You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.

Questions?

Fee:

Ratio 1:1 $2699

Ratio 1:2 $1799 each

Includes: guide, 4wd to trailhead, group equipment
 

Dates:

After the pocket glacier slides. Summer months. 

mid-July - September

2.5 - days

Note: flexibility around dates (couple days on each side) in order to take advantage of weather windows is desirable for a successful summit bid.

Pre-requisite:

Good physical conditioning. The most important element for a successful Slesse climb is physical ability. Participants need to be comfortable seconding 5.9 for long hours with a 20 pound pack. Suggested pre-requisite routes are: Squamish Buttress 5.9, Angels Crest 5.10b, Ultimate Everything 5.10b, Yak Chek 5.9.

Equipment:

Note: gear needs to be ultralight!

• rock climbing shoes (comfortable)

• harness

• helmet (climbing)

• chalk bag

• belay device (ATC type)

• 2 x locking carabiners

• 1 x double length sling (120cm)

• 1 x 19” Sterling hollow block

• clothing (synthetic), thin toque & gloves

• down sweater

• rain gear (left in the car)

• approach shoes (sticky rubber)

• Khatoola Micro Spikes

• personnel items (ie. bandaids, sunscreen, sun glasses, toothbrush, cup, dixie spoon)

• Wag Bag

• headlamp (fresh batteries)

• 2 x 1L Platypus bottles

• 30L pack

• bivi gear (bivy foam, 1lb sleeping bag, bivi sac)

Note: VMG will supply any equipment you do not have (except rock shoes).