6 Days Bugaboos!

This 6-day alpine rock camp is located in the spectacular Bugaboos, BC. No other location epitomizes the alpine better. Incredible granite spires rise from massive rumbling glaciers.

This is the perfect trip for those with a rock climbing background wanting to learn and experience alpine rock. The first day in the alpine is spent learning and reviewing crevasse rescue and glacier travel. The next 4 days are spent climbing in the spires.

This program will be based out of the fantastic Conrad Kain Hut. Amenities include, propane cook stoves, lights, cooking and eating utensils, and foam pads to sleep on.

Due to the high demand, we recommend participants book early.

Pre-requisites

• Excellent physical fitness.

• Backcountry backpacking experience.

• Top rope 5.8 crack climbs outside with a pack.

Itinerary

Pre-trip Meeting via Zoom

Evening pre-trip meeting (7-9pm) will go over itinerary, meeting location, equipment, and logistics.

Day 1

Meet at Brisco General Store 10am. Drive 45km to the trailhead (2wd with clearance required). Hike to Conrad Kain Hut.

Stats:
4.6km
720m elev. gain
3-4hrs

Day 2

Learn and review crevasse rescue and glacier travel. You’ll need this for the next 4 days!

Day 3-6

Spend the next 4 days climbing the spires. Expect early mornings and spectacular alpine scenery.

Route options include:

• Eastpost Spire, NW Ridge 4th

• Brenta Spire, South Ridge 5.2

• Pigeon Spire, West Ridge 5.4

• Crescent Spire, Lions Way 5.6

• Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route 5.6

• Crescent Spire, Ears Between 5.7

• Snowpatch Spire, SE Corner 5.8 (Long)

• Snow Patch Spire, Surfs Up 5.9

• Crescent Spire, McTech Arete 5.10a/b

Optional: Rest day hike and take photos.

Goals

• Review rock climbing basics: belaying, knots, equipment strengths and limitations.

• Rope ascending with a Tibloc and Nanotraxion.

• Review equipment for glacier travel on snow/ice (depending on conditions).

• Self-arrest and ice axe use.

• Learn to walk on snow slopes: kicking steps, holding the ice axe (cane, dagger, anchor).

• Learn and practice different snow and ice anchors: pickets, t-slots, bollards, ice screws, v-threads (depending on conditions).

• Snow/Ice techniques, flat foot, pied troisieme, and front pointing.

• Roping up for glacier travel: tying-in, stopper knots, spacing, rope team movement.

• Crevasse rescue practice

• Climbing Bugaboos Classics:

  options: Pigeon Spire, W Ridge 5.4; Snow Patch Spire Route 5.7, Surfs Up 5.9; Crescent Spire, Lions Way 5.6, McTech Arete 5.10a/b; Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route 5.6, and others.

• Discuss route finding in the field over alpine terrain with moraines, talus, and snow.

• Introduce techniques to move over alpine terrain with snow/ice and rock/talus.

Note: Goals are the discretion of your guide based on their professional judgement.

Equipment

(Detailed list will be emailed)

• Harness

• Helmet (climbing)

• Guide belay device

• Mountaineering boots

• Crampons (fitted to boots)

• General ice axe (70cm)

• 1 X 60cm Snow Picket

• 5 x Locking carabiners (pear shape)

• 1 x Double length sling (120cm)

• 1 x Cordalette (5m x 6mm cord)

• 1 x Sterling Hollowblock prusik

• 1 x Nanotraxion

• 1 x Tibloc

• Personal Items (toothbrush, insect repellent, sunglasses, sunscreen, pain killers, bandaids, athletic tape)

• Synthetic Clothing

• Sleeping Bag (0c)

• 20-30L Climbing Pack

• 70-80L Backpack

Note: VMG can supply some equipment if required.

Fee

$2599.00 +GST (6 days)

***Includes Conrad Kain Hut fees.

Dates

July 13-18
August 2-7

Ratio

1:2 (guide : participant)

Min: 1 guide : 2 participants
Max: 3 guides : 6 participants

Waiver

You are required to read the VMG Waiver and agree to it’s terms and conditions prior to paying or signing. Your guide needs to see the emailed waiver verification before participating.

Questions?